Spot the difference: One David defeated Goliath, the other David has a wife with a dad that drives a Rolls Royce, and the final David is Georgian design icon David Koma at Berlin Fashion Week. All of these have the latter’s collection “I love David” in common.

The SS26 show marks the designer’s third menswear show and instead of London’s urban fashion scene, Berlin Fashion Week becomes the backdrop for “I love David”. Here at The Palais am Funkturm, Koma reflects on the perception of masculinity.

“I love David” appears to be tongue-in-cheek at first glance, possibly referencing the 2000’s boom in “I <3 NY” shirts that morphed into variations such as Paris Hilton’s iconic “I <3 Shoes, Bags & Boys” from 2007.

However, instead of a revamped shirt slogan, “I love David” aims to combine different interpretations of manhood. The examples Koma chooses being David Beckham, Michelangelo’s David and himself.

Apart from the name of the collection, Y2K à la David Beckham is implemented in full force. Low waist denim, beach shorts and frat boy striped polo shirts clash with luxurious outerwear consisting of aged leather trenches and waxed cotton smocks lined with red shearling. The unbuttoned shirt bottoms are a genius styling choice to capture David Beckham’s turn of the millennium style. 

One runway look features a pair of low waist, light washed baggy jeans, black Havaianas and a t-shirt saying “I Love David”. The cheesy 90’s graphic design references an original worn by Beckham in 2001. The footballer’s original was created as a custom piece by Adidas with “I Kiss Football” written across the front.

Michelangelo’s David first appears in elegant nuances throughout the collection such as sculptural draping across t-shirts or pale, earthy marble-esque tones such as stone gray or dusty brown. But by the time one of the models walks out in a delicate lace crochet apron donning an image of the statue’s body, David is unquestionably present.

During his third menswear collection, David Koma implements the signatures he’s known and loved for in womenswear. Classic silhouettes are given an extra glam treatment through sequins, tull, embellishments and crystals throughout each look. The hibiscus flower seen on belts, chains and brooches act as a nod to Koma’s couture and eveningwear background.

With his SS26 collection, David Koma converses with different ideals of manhood. Michelangelo’s David is an age-old symbol for strength, bravery and cleverness. David Beckham is the modern heartthrob loved and idealized by both men and women for his athleticism, charm and wittiness. David Koma positions himself in between these men with “I Love David”. He changes the narrative of a static ideal – masculinity changes as we change. And he as a designer is right there at the center of this change, shaping and morphing our understanding of all the things a man can be.