Martin Quad SS27 collection explores tailoring bringing a deconstructed office siren aesthetic on the BFW Runway
At Berlin Fashion Week SS27, Martin Quad presents Woodman Pt. 2 as part of Intervention by Reference Studios. Founded by designer and creative director Martin Juncker, the brand continues its exploration of fashion as a space where performance, theatre, and installation intersect. Through deconstructed tailoring and an operatic presentation, Woodman Pt. 2 reflects on mirroring, transformation, and the relationship between body and garment inspired by photographer Francesca Woodman.
Founded in 2023, Martin Quad has established a distinctive practice through performance-led presentations operating between fashion, theatre, and installation. Previous works include Sixfold Fate Pt. 2, a pantomime runway production presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week with support from The Danish Arts Foundation. With Woodman Pt. 2, Juncker continues to expand this interdisciplinary approach, presenting fashion as an immersive experience rather than a conventional runway show.
A Collection Inspired by Francesca Woodman
The presentation unfolds through an original operatic composition written by Martin Juncker in collaboration with Copenhagen-based artist and composer Soli City – bringing on the BFW runway a collection inspired by the work of late American photographer Francesca Woodman.
Woodman’s imagery informs both the conceptual and visual language of the collection. Mirroring functions as both an image and a method of construction, with garments duplicated, displaced, inverted, and fragmented throughout the collection. Her iconic black-and-white photography also inspires the collection’s palette, presenting a monochromatic wardrobe dominated by shades of black, white, and grey.
Woodman Pt. 2 Is Deconstructing Classical Tailoring
Throughout the collection, Martin Quad manipulates the conventions of classical tailoring without abandoning them entirely. Familiar silhouettes are distorted and reconstructed, creating garments that feel simultaneously recognisable and unfamiliar.
Among the key looks are jackets designed to drape above the hips, trousers and skirts cut unusually high beneath the chest, felted hats obscuring half the face, and translucent layers of fluid silk organza. The interplay between structured tailoring and sheer fabrics creates silhouettes that shift between precision and softness, while the fragmented construction echoes the collection’s exploration of reflection and duplication.
Rather than presenting tailoring in its traditional form, Woodman Pt. 2 proposes an alternative approach— one where garments continuously transform through proportion, layering, and repetition. The result is a collection that balances sculptural construction with a quiet sense of theatricality, reinforcing Martin Quad’s ongoing dialogue between fashion, performance, and visual art.