William Fan’s latest collection is one standout presentation at Berlin Fashion Week. Known for his unique blend of German-Chinese influences, the designer showcases his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, aptly titled “Alter Ego,” in celebration of his ten-year anniversary. He transforms the Berlin Philharmonie into a vibrant hub for fashion enthusiasts. Among them, I managed to catch a glimpse of the bustling preparations behind one of Berlin’s most anticipated shows this season.

2:43 pm. Entering the backstage area of the philharmonic, I am greeted by a lively ambience. The heavy metal door opens to reveal a bustling atmosphere filled with people, each absorbed in their own endeavors. 

Passing through the backstage corridors and stepping into the chamber music hall, I found a serene contrast to the usual buzz of the Philharmonie. A grand piano anchors the space, surrounded by pieces of William Fan’s AW25 collection, including a stunning green floor-length coat and exquisitely crafted leather pieces. William Fan himself enters, exuding charisma in a casual ensemble of a shirt, paired with flowing silk trousers. We settle into conversation about his inspirations, career trajectory, and the essence of his new collection.

William Fan: “Definitely. I think I came up with the idea for this collection because I asked myself what I’ve actually been doing for the last ten years. I think the power of clothing or fashion is that you can really slip into different roles, and let it support you, or let it simply underline certain desires. I’ve played a lot of characters, and when you do, you try out different roles. Today there will also be a special cast, mainly from television. I specifically made that decision because I think we grow up in such a visual world and determine ourselves a lot based on role models. That is our reality, so to speak. The cross-section of many different characters is a bit like my alter ego.”

Emerging from our conversation, I feel an electrifying anticipation for the show. The models, while distinct and unique, carry an air of familiarity: As William mentioned, some are recognizable figures from other creative realms, like Maria Hunstig, editor of Vogue, or the iconic choreographer, model and TV judge Bruce Darnell. Notably, the cast is refreshingly diverse, aligning perfectly with William Fan’s ethos of celebrating authenticity and everyday elegance for all people.

William Fan: “The very first thing would be how gender roles have always played a role in fashion. I just don’t think that’s necessary, and it’s nonsense. Also, how luxury has changed – big corporations have become mass production facilities. I think luxury is shifting, at least the idea of it. And I think what we offer in our little safe space island is really the absolute modern luxury that you can actually have.”

The designs of William Fan’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection effortlessly blend simple silhouettes with luxurious fabrics, interspersed with avant-garde elements that pay homage to Fan’s Chinese heritage. As he aptly states: “Fashion is a canvas for personal expression.”

William Fan: “Well, of course, we have a lot of black. Black is a color that I personally wear a lot. It protects you. I think that’s something psychological. We have a lot of textures, they are very lavish, wealthy and are really luxurious. We have rich shades of brown, but also some pink and turquoise. A lot of the colors are inspired by the Peking Opera.”

The influence of the Peking Opera resonates throughout the collection, transporting the audience to a vibrant landscape of color and energy. Predominantly featuring black, the designs served as a grounding backdrop for bursts of sequins in turquoise and rose hues, complemented by striking makeup in collaboration with the cosmetics brand Kiko Milano. 

Although the designs vary widely, they share a cohesive signature style unique to William Fan. An interplay of cargo pants and blazer jackets go in contrast with dramatic collars, flounces, feathers, fur-like fabrics and expressive cuts with an abundance of details, symbolizing the myriad roles we embody in life.

The leather loafers that complement nearly every outfit are particularly appealing; highlighting William Fan’s minimalist aesthetic while adding a fashionable touch. Striking simplicity, combined with high-quality materials and an elegant design, makes them an essential must-have for the season. Another essential item are the leather bags, which exude a laid-back yet sophisticated vibe, thanks to their notably wide-set handles.

The tranquil essence of William Fan’s previous collections gives way to a rich tapestry of personality and depth, reflecting a decade of evolution. His designs aim to evoke uncharted desires and dreams. “Alter Ego” invites us to explore our own aspirations, artfully crafting a narrative that resonates deeply and breaks the silence of convention.